Monday, September 14, 2009

Sunday in Quilpue


We woke up around 9:30...ok 10am on Sunday to get the train to Quilpue. The train was 1.200 each for a single, and we had to buy a student card which you fill up when you want to use it. The train was really clean and new, similar to the style of trains in London. We had about 10 stops, and I joked that it would be like taking the 1 train downtown from our apt in New York. 

When we got off at Quilpue Claudio was waving at us from across the street. I told Sylvain- hey that guy seems to knows us, is he waving at us? do you think it  could be Claudio? it really seems like he knows us look at him waving. We had imagined we would have to call him when we arrived for a ride, but there he was waiting for us in his red Volvo station wagon. He greeted us in Spanish and I let Sylvain ride in front so that I could sit back and listen rather than try to hold up the conversation in my novice Spanish. Elspeth met us at the door, and she looked exactly like a Smithie. It was comforting, in a way. Their house was open plan which was convenient but difficult to heat, and thus, as always in Chile, chili. The only time I am ever warm here, is in those morning hours in bed when you've been tucked in tight conserving body heat all night long and nestled in layers of wool. 

They put out a plate of cheese and I dug into the blue without any hesitation. Cheese is sort of  a luxury here. Today, I'm  somewhat curious as to what other varieties were on offer, cause yesterday I was inhaling the blue wondering to myself if i would have any pockets of space left to stick Argentinian beef and grilled vegetables.  Apparently I did, I ate more than I can remember eating in a long long time. Sylvain often reminds me he's just a belly, but I think I put him to shame yesterday, and if I didn't surpass his consumption, I was his equal. 

Claudio and Elspeth were lovely hosts with two young boys, Rafael and Miguel. Rafa was eager to pull up a chair and join us noshing on cheese, but was equally able to entertain himself with a mini football and a grill brush. They took us on a walk around the property where in the last year they seemed to have planted about 50 trees and in years to come will enjoy fruit, herbs and grape vines in their garden. Elspeth and I talked about days at Smith, how parallel our lives have been- our time as teachers in New York, taking leaves and moving to Chile and both doing an MA in education at NYU. Claudio at 41 had just retired from 20 years as a police officer and was a student again learning Web Design. Their main residence was in Santiago, but they had gotten a lump sum of money when Claudio had worked for the UN for a year in Haiti and with it they bought this property, otherwise salaries in Chile were shockingly low buying property almost impossible, and very few can afford any hope of middle class status without foreign money. Around 5:30 Elspeth drove us back to the train and we sunk into our seats headed back to Valpo. 

Tonight I will give Yoga with Pedro Alguilera a shot and hopeful there won't be a shower break 30 minutes into class. 

Here's a photo from the market next to Sylvain's school. I bought a pear and some golden raisins for a dollar there today. 

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